Camel Safari from Feb-24

Jaisalmer Camel Safari
Here is just some of the entertainment we had while in the Thar Desert on the Camel Safari. This video is from February 24, 2009.

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2nd Day in Udaipur

A Long Day in Udaipur
Today was a very long day. It started by me waking up at 7:00 sharp to go for a run and do some 250 sits up followed by 125 push ups...and man am I out of shape. I got back, showered, and the dropped of my laundry at some place that looks like it has been vacant for years. It was a good 20 minute walk from my hotel and I'm almost 80% sure that I'll be able to find it again when I have to pick up my stuff. I made it back to my hotel by 9:30 to meet the group. Ajit, our guide, was going to take us around the City Palace (see a picture of me inside on left). I had to pay 50 Rp. to get in and another 200 Rp to take my camera in...DAMN!. It was just OK. After seeing so much, it couldn't compare, but it was nice still the same. Afterwards we went to a silver jewelry shop so that some people could buy stuff for themselves and as for gifts. The stuff was pretty crappy, but I guess the others had NO idea on what constituted as quality and what as cow manure...but that just confirms my initial assessment on how these people are the 'typical' western tourists...that is, they have no individual thought, they just pay whatever they are told to pay, and are just ignorant people. Just last night all the girls were talking about how they couldn't wait until they had their fortune read from a palm reader. They were discussing the 'science' behind it and then they finally asked what I thought. I told them how you can 'cold read' someone based on what they wear, how they speak, their posture, etc. I told them there was no science behind it and it's entire market is perpetuated by voodoo worshiping undereducated people. Well, obviously I didn't say that, but God knows I wanted to. I went to look for some saris with the Norwegian girls, and then after that went with Lisa, the German girl. I went to AT LEAST 6 or 7 different places and shopped around for price and quality. I bought 3 saris from one place and then 1 from another place. In total the initial asking price was around 4500 to 5000 Rps for all 4. I bargained and bargained for the better part of 2 hours. I ended up walking out on 2 shop keepers hoping they would call my bluff, they didn't. Luckily the other 2 did call it and immediately ran after me in the streets demanding I come back to hear their 'new Final Offer'. That's funny, I always thought a final offer meant they would not give another one? I was able to get the saris for a total of 2400 Rps., which was about half of what they had originally asked for them. Now for comparison, the others in my group ALL PAID what the shop keepers ORIGINALLY ASKED FOR. It's sad because I KNOW that all of these people (likely) will suffer severely from this down turning economy. Maybe if they were not completely thoughtless they would not get ripped off. I am sorry, I digress, I don't mean to turn this blog into a negative group-session, but you have to understand. It's very hard for me to be surrounded by people that had the level of comprehension about their surroundings I likely had more than 7 or 8 years ago. UGH. Anyways, I went to an incense 'place' with Lisa, which was behind some type of kiosk and in a very very grungy little closet-filled shack. The guy claimed that all his incense was 'home made'. OK that was lie number one. Next he was saying that he exported to all the major distributors in the world. OK that was lie number two. Next he claimed that he couldn't go any lower as I told Lisa to haggle since he was already selling it at cost. That was lie number three...and boy was that the worst of the lies. But get this LISA actually believed him, felt bad, and then offered 100 Rps. more so he could make a profit. I wanted to kick her for that...but instead I bit my tongue and went to the post office to mail my post cards, all 7 of them. That reminds me, have any of you received mine yet? I only had to pay $0.24 per post card, which is much less than the $1.15+ I paid while in Lao. The post office looked like a repossessed car garage no larger than 750 sq. ft. There was no feeling of semblance and I had ask 4 people there how to go about sending a post card to America. I received my stamps and had to ask manually glue each of the stamps to the post cards, since they were not self-adhesive. They were just paper. I even had to use my own finger to get the glue out of the container and onto the post card...how precious. Afterwards I got two big bananas that only cost me 5 Rps (10 cents) and then went to shop for some leather bound journals. I LOVE THE FEEL OF LEATHER BOUND JOURNALS. I went into 4 or 5 shops that carried these journals to test the waters. I got a pretty good idea of what the selection was and their prices. I spent no less than 45 minutes shopping in the place I decided I would actually do my purchasing (see picture on right). I love opening them up and then closing them and wrapping the leather strap around to fasten them closed. They just felt like something right out of "Raiders of the Last Ark". I don't know what it is about them, but whenever I hold a leather bound book I can't help but feel that the book has some inherent value and meaning...which is stupid, but oh well. I ended up buying 7 (yeah you heard me, ) journals. Some as gifts, some for myself, and some in hopes to sell for a profit. But I got a pretty good deal since I bought in bulk. The shop keeper even offered me a nice hot chai, which I gladly accepted. I am going to go to the 7:30 showing of Octopussy w/ James Bond at some rooftop restaurant close by. I'll have my dinner while I watch the flick. Apparently part of the movie was filmed here, in Udaipur, so many local places have DAILY showing of it.

I am not sure why this group is not as good as my last group? Maybe because they are younger they are less experienced, and therefore less mature. Maybe it's because many of them are from England and that's how the British are (I don't really think this is correct). Maybe it's the type of people that come to India, but that also doesn't sound right. I really don't know why these people are so immature. Well I shouldn't say immature...more so childish and less intelligent. And I'm not using my typical 'high standards' for intelligence. I think I miss Kim and Lyn from my last group. If you're reading this KIM and LYN I MISS YOU GUYS SO MUCH. :(. O well, cheers everybody. Remember even though I am ranting on and on about my group don't think I'm not still getting along with them. I do a very good job adjusting to my atmosphere and 'having fun', but it's just not the ideal group. I'm enjoying every bit of my trip here in India. It's just very hard coming from such a great group in South East Asia.

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Jodhpur to Udaipur

Last Night in Jodhpur
Last night we went out to eat last night at a very nice restaurant called "On The Rocks". There was a reserved room waiting for us. This room was stacked with plush couches and the walls were made to look like rocks as if we were inside a cave. There was a color TV and western music was being played loudly. This was a VERY rich place. We arrived around 7:15 and many of us were quite hungry, but we were only having drink now and had to wait for the table. We waited over 1 hour and 15 minutes. By the time we finally ordered we had all decided what each of us were ordering. I got Mutton Ra-Ra and it was great...man did I miss the taste of meat.


Udaipur, India
The next morning (today) I woke up at half past 6:00 and packed my bags...AGAIN! We hailed auto-rickshaws and went to the bus stop. We left Jodhpur at 7:30 sharp and were on our way to Udaipur. We made one 15 minute stop around noon for the bathroom and some snacks. I asked where the bathrooms where and a man said anywhere and made a hand gesture pointing all around. I took a leak to the right of a food stall with my back facing the bus. Others went to urinate as well, but in front of me...staring at me as they walked past. We then boarded the bus again and drove until half past 3. I sat next to Deb, who had a window seat. We moved up a row immediately since we noticed, by the rancid smell, a splatter of vomit on the window beside us. I took a sleeping pill immediately and got a good hours sleep (at most). I read the last 200 pages in my book and listened to at least 60 Dave Matthews Band songs. I have never read that many pages in one sitting before. The book turned our to very insightful and I'm glad I read it during my travels in India. I recommend you all read it. It was called "The White Tiger" in case you forgot and it won some 2008 book award. It made me think about my driver in Delhi, Mr. Kamal, and it makes me very sad. O well. I'm in Udaipur right now and it's very nice. Much more touristy than the other cities we've been to so far. I actually see other white people here. I'm thinking about buying some journals and maybe a new hookah, but the shipping may make any purchase pointless. It's much hotter here in the south. We are staying in a hotel that is right on the lake. We have a rooftop restaurant that is 5 or 6 floors up, so the view is great. Our room has plenty of space, but the bathroom is far from luxurious. There is just a bottom part of a toilet and we have to manually flush the toilet by filling a plastic jug with water and repeatedly pouring water into the bowl. I don't mind at all. I think I am going to plan my next trip around the United States. I think it would a great experience to backpack around the 'middle' states, maybe a feel a motorcycle/camping trip coming my way?

Anyways, here are pics the sights that are in Udaipur, India:
The Lake Palace (see picture above left)
The Taj Lake Palace (see picture above right)

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2 Days in Jodhpur, India

Jodhpur, India
We walked around town a bit and took a 5 hour public bus to Jodhpur. The bus was not too bad, though the locals tried to 'squeeze' onto the seats that we were sitting in. I didn't let them sit with me though. We paid for our seats and the others just paid to stand. When we go into town we walked around and met for dinner on the rooftop restaurant. The first thing I noticed when I got off the bus and stepped off was the thick dirty air. I was coughing up a lung. It was much dirtier than Delhi, at least that was the impression that I got. Our hotel is just in the heart of the town...less than 5 minutes from the clock tower (picture on right). I wanted to visit some local villages on a safari, but no one else wanted to join me. I couldn't go alone so I pleaded. After I showed the others an in my lonely planet I got 4 of them to change their minds. There were now 5 of us taking a village safari to the Bishnois village. These people sacrificed their lives to save the cutting down of a tree. We took a jeep packed with 6 of us total and went off road (really really off road) 50 km or so until we pulled up to a couple of huts. We were informed of the Bishnois caste and some other information about their small village. We drank some opium tea and then some Indian chai. We toured the village and helped grind flour and some other daily chores. Next we went to another village, of the caste I think is Megual (something like that). There we tried on some turbans and local clothing and helped an old man weave carpets from camel wool (see picture on left). All these castes are sub castes of the Brahmins. The Brahmins don't eat meat which is killing me, but tonight we are going to an upscale restaurant which serves meat, yummy. I keep ordering my meals extra extra spicy, but am left having to order a side order of chillies. I don't think the Indian food is as spicy as I hoped. After the village safari I went to the Mehrangarh Fort (see video below), where I got a 50 Rp discount since I had a student ID card. For the total price of 200 Rp. we got an entrance ticket plus an audio tour of the Fort. It was quite wonderful, but I think I'm done with the forts. The village safari was about 6 or so hours and it was 550 Rp ($11 USD), which included the 100+ km round trip off road transport, a tour guide, and lunch.

A few of you asked where I went to the bathroom in the desert...um behind a sand dune! As for TP, I typically remember to always snatch a handful wherever I find it, but you just have to improvise. I was very happy since our hotel last night and tonight actually had hot water, but only from 7-10 in the morning and 7-10 at night. I had a bunch of stuff I wanted to write about but am at a loss of words. It's just so dirty here, people spitting, their mouths and teeth stained red from whatever the hell they're chewing. Cows and dogs just sleeping in the middle of main roads, constant honking of the horns. The smell can be pretty rancid, but not as bad as it could be. There isn't much of a night life in India past 8:00, and TVs are not really available, and Internet cafes often don't have signal. This morning I walked with a couple of people to the clock tower before our jeep picked us up for the safari. There we went to a stand and got some breakfast, some type of fried break with some yellow and green sauces. I think they were just curried chillies. Tomorrow we wake up early for a 7 hour public bus journey to Udaipur, we'll be there for 3 nights. Cheers!

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Camel Safari in Thar Desert

The Camel Safari

After a short 30 or so minute jeep ride into the heart of the Thar desert we unloaded our packs. We took just what we needed and tossed the rest into a cart pulled by a camel. We each were given out own camel. The man claimed my camel's name was Raj, but I'm not too sure how much the name means. Dave's camel was named Michael Jackson and the others had typical Indian-sounding names. We were all in dressed in pants and shows to protect ourselves from the abrasive sand and sun. We rode the camels nonstop for roughly 2 hours. I was doing quite well, but the others were complaining about their backs and bums when they had gotten off. We were only 5km from where we initially started, but it was desolate. Very little vegetation and sand dunes all around us. There were ants and large beadles swimming in their endless baths of sand. We watched the sun set which started at 6:30 and was fully set at 6:40. It set over Pakistan and tomorrow we will watch it rise over Delhi. We enjoyed a nice snack that was freshly cooked by the people that walked along out camels. We got some fried vegetable stuff, along with some sweet biscuits, and some freshly fried potato slices. They also had this one treat that is similar to the Chinese colored wafers some restaurants give you for your soup. This of course was accompanied by some authentic sweet chai. We played some drinking games and drank the Indian beer of choice, Kingfisher. While we were watching the sun set a man played some music for us using some type of metal vibrating pin. See to the right for a sampling.

After a short while a local hill tribe (gypsies) played us some music and danced. One instruments was a drum and tambourine while the other sounded like a bag pipe. There were two young women dressed in native clothing and danced gracefully for us. They took our hands and we all joined in, only not so gracefully. Men were building a fire at this point and preparing our feast. Were were all very hungry since we hadn't eaten for a while. When the meal came we couldn't believe how much there was. We were given chapati, rice, and 4 vegetarian dishes. I didn't think it was too much, neither did Deb, the Scottish born Aussie who was sitting next to me. See a photo of Deb on the right. Much to our surprise men kept coming back with large pots of food and gave us heaps upon heaps of food. I couldn't believe how much I ate. After dinner we got a table/bed closer to the fire and set up a card game to drink to. Each card has a rule and every player takes turns drawing cards. The point of the game is to drink. No winners, no losers. We all drank and drank for hours until it was about 12:00. We were listening to some music at that point. It was funny because no one had a pair of speakers that was working and my iPod wasn't loud enough. One girl had a flashlight you can wind up and charge anything via a USB port. One of the girls had bought a small speaker that charges just this way. So we would be winding this damn flashlight to power the speaker, and If I would wind too slow the speaker would just stop. It sounded like a broken record was playing. We were all having a blast trying to wind this thing fast enough to keep up with the music of the iPod. We gazed at the stars and it was just so clear. We slept on a, well, don't know how to describe it. There was a frame with 4 legs, and along the top there were some straps of fabric. On this fabric we laid some sheets and then a pillow. We were just sleeping out in the open under the stars (see picture on left). The nearest toilette is wherever the hell you want it to be. The rule was just that you were supposed to kick sand on wherever you had just gone. I was writing in my journal and there must have been at least 5 girls swarming over to see if I had written about them. They were quite put off that I had not, though I passed it around and let them all write a little something. I've been keeping up very good on my journal writing. Everyday, between 2 and 4 pages a day on average. Here in India they sell nicely crafted leather bound journals with nice paper and I want to buy them all. I am not sure I have any more uses for them, so Please give me some suggestions as how I could use them. I need SOME type, ANY type of an excuse to buy 1, 2, or 8 of these. Also, if you like journals and want one, just let me know what size, and style and it's yours. TRUST ME ON THIS...I went to look at many journals before settling on the one I brought with me on my trip. The leather journals back in the states will cost between $15 and $80 USD, while the SAME ones will cost between $2 and $10.

Anyways I'm off to take a 5 hour public bus to Jodhpur, India.

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More Time in Jaisalmer, India

1st Night in Jaisalmer
Last night we met on our rooftop restaurant for several beers and to watch the sun set over the city. The picture to the right shows our view of the city from our hotel. I wanted to venture out more and try some other food, while most of the others were content with staying at the hotel and eating there. I took the initiative and organized the group to come out for dinner. I was on the hunt for meat, since our hotel was vegetarian only. The two other places we came across were vegetarian only as well, so I had to settle. It was an Italian place, I KNOW I KNOW, I didn't want to eat here, but I lost the vote. I got Olgio Olio, but it was very simple and not nearly as spicy as they had promised. I have asked all my meals in the last two days to be EXTRA spicy, and I have yet to be impressed. Finally after an hour we had given our orders and after another 30 minutes some of us started getting our food. It took at least 2 hours for everyone to finish eating, at which point it was nearly 9:30. We went back to the hotel but were not able to buy any more alcohol even coke since everywhere closes at 8:00. We got everybody up to the rooftop again and ordered some cokes their. We had several bottles of Vodka and Whiskey from earlier and drank that. We played drinking games and talked for hours. I was actually the first person to leave the group for bed. It was about 1:40 and I think the others must have stayed until at least 2:00 in the morning. It was an OK time, I'm not really into drinking, and wine is expensive here, so I'll have to adjust. Last night I got in to a deep and 'heated' debate/discussion with Dave, the only other American on our trip, about some hot topics. He grew up in and has family in Youngstown, but has lived outside of America for a couple years. We mostly discussed national health care and how he (as well as everybody else in the conversation) felt it was a human right and that it should be free. If you know me at all you know how I had a field day with this. I discussed competition and efficiency and how if the government controlled health care it surely and inevitably result in doctors having pre-set salaries provided by the government, which would in turn decrease or completely eliminate all competition within medicine. This would then drive down the standards and would finally result in poorer health case for the people. It would mean higher rates paying for less efficient/capable doctors. Technical advances in medicine would slow to a crawl since there would be no private interest the matter, etc, etc, etc. His main argument was, though not in his words, 'Doctors [should] go to school to help people and not to make a lot of money". It got me so pissed I was shocked I was able to contain myself. I was asking why he didn't go and get a higher form of education or for that matter a more lucrative, and thus more challenging, career. He said he was smart enough and 'had the grades', but didn't want to spend, or waste, his next 8 years to become a doctor. I asked him, "So the doctors 'waste' 8 years or more of their lives in order to better serve those that have your mentality, where you would rather travel and settle for a lower skilled job?". He would have the "few" elite sacrifice their lives (or at least much of it studying) for the benefit of society so everyone can get health care. I asked him if he would think the same if he were a, he said he would...but I just said you wouldn't be a doctor because you wouldn't want to waste your own 8 years. Ok Ok, I'll stop, but it got me SOOO mad. I've noticed most of the travelers I have met in the last 5 weeks have very Utopian view of the world and believe in socialism (even though they don't like to call it that). Though I find it quite funny that EVERYONE of these travelers also would benefit from their 'ideas', and hold lower-earning jobs. The few that I've met that have been doctors or well-off business men do not hold these views. Many of these 'socialist' travelers feel they are more 'worldly' and more 'knowledgeable' than the professionals, doctors, lawyers, etc. I get so bothered by this, because when others are striving to be the best they can and to achieve high status/ high skilled professions these 'socialists' are taking unskilled labor jobs just to fund their year or so of traveling. And they do this for much of their lives. They are worry free, contributing to society very minimally, and these are the people that think EVERYBODY should be GIVEN things for free, since the high paid professionals SHOULD want to help people and it's not about the money. Hippocrates would have a field day with these people. UGH. O well THAT'S the ranting that at least one person voted for. haha.

2nd Day in Jaisalmer
Today started very late. I got out of bed past 11:00 and went across the street for a nice huge breakfast. I was quite hungry since the dinner last night wasn't really a meal (since there was no meat in my pasta). My breakfast included a large mineral water, tomato and cheese omelet on toast with french fries and baked beans in some ketchup-like sauce. I ate it all, though will be full for the next week. My entire meal cost 85 Rps. ($1.70) and I have him a 100 Rp. bill and asked for 5 back. A while ago I would think asking for 5 Rp. back would be kind of pointless/rude since it's only a dime, but prices are all relative here. After breakfast I walked around and bought the book "The White Tiger" off the street. I traded in a book that another traveler gave me back in Lao and paid a total of 200 Rp for the book, though it's probably a bootleg. I've heard great things about this book so I'll try to read it over the next few days. I sat on a curb to read the book and was approached by at least 8 different people over the course of 2 hours. All of them were young men, between the ages of 19-24. At first I thought they were going to try to sell me something, then I thought they were going to try to rob me, but 'most' of them just wanted to talk with me. One of them was 20 years old and we spoke for at least an hour. I let him listen to my Ipod. He told me he worked at a stone cutting factory outside the city and that his father owned it. We discussed India and American and how wages were different. I met his brother who is studying at University, but comes to help with another family business, selling fabrics in the market across from where I was sitting. I must have spent the better part of my day talking with people in the markets, outside shops, and just on the street. Bought a pack of henna that I'm going to bring home. Maybe some wants a temporary (several weeks) tattoo? I am going to find a place to get a henna tattoo, but all the places were too busy or closed today. I just bought a lonely planet for Rajasthan + Delhi + Agra off the street and am in the shop's back on their computer right now. They wanted 850 Rps. for it ($17 USD) and the book says it sells for $23.99 in the states. The book is new and genuine and only a couple years old. I was able to negotiate 670 Rp. ($13 USD) for the book and 1 free hour of Internet. Tomorrow we go on the camel safari through the Thar Desert.

I really like the people here in Jaisalmer. They are friendly, for the most part, and the city is much more relaxed and quiet. Though it's a little bothersome to be caught behind a street cow in a tunnel when I'm trying to get somewhere and have to wait behind. You can see a photo of some cows just 'chilling' on the left.

I'll stop with the ranting and let you go in peace. Cheers!

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Sleeper Train to from Delhi to Jaisalmer

Sleeper Train
We met outside our hotel at 4:00 to leave for the sleeper train. I stopped by a convenient store for some munchies. I go ta diet Pepsi, and some cookies and chocolate bars. Others got sodas and cookies as well as well as some pringles. We took two local taxis to the train station, which took 45 or so minutes and then we had to walk up and down several flights of stairs to get to our platform. Finally we had arrived, but without ample time to buy dinner to take on the train with us. We all gave our guide, Ajit, 150 Rps ($3 USD) for some dinner and he ran to get us some food, just making the train. The food was quite good, though packaged in a plastic TV-dinner like tray with shrink wrapping. The train left a little before 6. The train was quite insane. It wasn't as packed as I had thought it would be, mostly because many people had arrived during periodic stops. There were 6 of us to a 'room', though it was not quite a room. It was completely open to the public and there were not even dividing sheets like there had been in Thailand. 3 people sat on the lower bunks. We were getting looks from EVERYBODY. There were no other white people on the entire train. The Indians starting going to bed around 8 and 9, but were up much later. Out of respect we decided to set up the beds at 10:30 and by 11:00 all the lights were off. I slept in the middle bunk, with one above me and one under me. There was just enough room for me to sit up if and only if I was slouching very much and sitting Indian style. The bunks were supported by hinges on one side and held up by two metal chain links on the other side. Although one of my links was longer than the other so all of my weight was supported with only one cable. The girl below me didn't like this so we managed to get some duct tape and tape the support chain to the bed. Though this wasn't structural, if the one link failed, the other chain would be in place to take the weight. We all got along great last night, and it's great being among the older travelers, such respect I get. Some girl had broken her camera such that the lens wouldn't close and I was able to fix it. That coupled with the fact that I was able to do a Rubik's cube that some girl brought along impressed the girls. Maybe I'll be able to play that for all it's worth. Hahah. We woke up and managed to occupy ourselves until the train arrived at our final destination, Jaisalmer.

1st Day in Jaisalmer, India

The most obvious thing about this area is that it's in the middle of a desert. As we got off the train there were stray cows everywhere, even in the train station. We arrived at our hotel within the fort and I received my own room, yippee. Since there are 3 guys and we all paid for doubles, we will be rotating who gets the single. We will be staying in this hotel for 3 days (only two nights). Tomorrow is a free day and the day after that we take a camel ride through the Thar Desert. I think we're actually on the camel for 3-4 hours. I have been on a camel before and trust me, they're not comfortable to ride. We met for lunch today on the top of our 'guest house' and after Ajit took us for a walk through the city. Tomorrow I think I'll go into one temple, get an Indian massage, and I'll figure the rest out as it comes. India doesn't really make their own wine so it's very expensive here, which is unfortunate, for me that is. Also, it's quite hard to find liquor and beer, so it's going to be quite different from South East Asia. I am not a liquor person and that is what everybody seems to be buying. The beer is hard to keep cold since there are no refrigerators in our rooms. You probably don't know this but most tour companies provide several levels of trips:

1. Basic - no frills, as much public transportation as possible, nothing included


2. Standard - higher level of comfort, more private transportation, etc


3. Comfort - nice hotels, no public transportation, many activities provided

My first trip was of the Standard level, while this trip is of the Basic level. I don't see it being a problem at all, but thought I would just add that little factoid. I figured my expenses for all of Indochina and Thailand for the 34 days and I came out exactly on budget (but that's including the cost of my suit). I am very happy about that. I will likely not spend as much in India as I had originally anticipated. Also, all of India is 10 hours and 30 minutes ahead of Cleveland time. I know it's kind of weird, but just add 10:30 to your clock to get my time.

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