A Long Day in Luang Prabang

A 78km Bike Ride
Steffen and I woke up at 4:40 and were out of the hotel by 5:00 sharp. We got into town around 5:25 and it was cold. We waited for the monks to come on their 'route', in which they walk by the 'hundreds' and the locals and tourists give them food. I did not give them any food because I think one should work for a their living. We walked down the morning market afterwords, where they had streets and streets of foods and live animals, some pretty freakish ones too. We went back to the hotel for a brief nap and we decided to go on a bike trip. We rented bikes for 20,000 kip (about $2.3 USD) for the day, which was more than the typical $1 USD. We were on the road by 10:45. We were going to the Kuang Si Falls, which our map states about 39 km away (~25 miles). The bikes were shitty since they only had one gear and the curly-type handlebars which are hard to handle. The journey was through the mountain, but we only had to stay on one road the entire time. The roads were SO HILLY it was the toughest workout I have had in a long time. We finally arrived a little over 2 hours later. The waterfall was wonderful and huge. There were some smaller falls that we were able to swim in, in which we did and the water was very cold. We Walked through a bear rescue sanctuary and enjoyed some refreshments.

On our way back my bike started to crap out on me. The axle where the pedals rotated was becoming more and more sloppy. It was getting so bad that I wasn't able to pedal uphill anymore without the pedal working properly. I would have to run along with the bike uphill, which was much more exhausting than one would imagine. I kept this up and after about 19km the bike chain came off the sprocket. Since there was only one gear there was no derailleur which meant the gear had so extra slack. I would need some tools in order to fix this already crappy bike. Steffen and I discussed our options and not 5 minutes later a pair of motorbikes came to our rescue. There were 3 boys and 1 girl, all from Denmark. I had told them that I needed some tools and that all motorbikes should have a built in kit (good thing I know this because they had no idea). I was able to relocate the rear sprocket and fit the chain back in place. This was amazing since those tools they give you for motorbikes are completely lame. I manage to go another 3 or 4 km before the same thing happens. I consider leaving that damn bike there and just jogging alongside Steffen, but that would be 15+ km (~10 miles) and that is just too much. Luckily I am able to flag down a tuk-tuk driver that is taking 4 people back from the waterfalls. You see EVERYBODY takes a van or hired tuk-tuk to and from the waterfalls. Maybe a couple people a week try to bike it, we were the couple this week. The driver loads my bike on top and talked me into town while Steffen rides back using his functioning bike. I discover the 4 people in the tuk-tuk are from London and 2 of the guys are traveling for a year while the other 2 (one guy and one girl) are traveling for only 2 weeks. The 2 guys had just spend 7 weeks in India and they were telling me about it and I got some good pointers. We also discussed how although we all 'enjoyed' Vietnam, that we were MORE than happy to be out of that disgusting place those dirty communists claim to be a 'country'. I get dropped off in the middle of town with my broken bike and the other claim I don't have to pay because they already paid the driver for a trip to and from the waterfall. However I tip the driver 8,000 kip. We stares at me insulted. He says I want more and in my mind I'm thinking of course you do. He says I need to pay him at least 10,000 and I say nope, don't have it, thanks for the ride. Even though I had more money I wont pay him more than that, I mean he only had to stop for 2 minutes and take me to the same place he took them. I then had to walk 25 minutes back to the bike place, drop off the bike and walk across the street to my hotel. I discovered that Steffen arrived only 3 minutes before me, since walking through town game him ample time to catch up. Also I was able to talk my way out of giving the biker rental guy a $20 USD deposit for each bike, which was a damn good thing.

I think tomorrow I will hike up the mountain and see the museum.

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Crazy Night in Vang Vieng, and Rough Morning After...

Full Moon Party In Vang Vieng
After tubing we went out to eat at a local restaurant. I am beginning to miss the American way of dining. Well I shouldn't say American, I should say "not Indochina way of dining". There we are, all 7 of us, sitting down and waiting for our orders to be taken. The waitress comes by and takes our drinks. This takes 10 minutes since there is some confusion on what diet coke it. You see, here Coca cola labels their diet sodas, "Coke Lite". She mixes up orders and gets confused with bottles and cans. Next she takes Shelly's order then disappears. We have to wait 5 minutes for her to come back and take Michael's. Then she leaves again. When she returns A.J. talks to her and explains that she should take all of our orders together. AJ was born in norther Thailand, Chang Mai, and the dialect is similar to Laos. This is a huge help to us. She takes Kati's and Anth's order, but then leaves again. Another 10 minutes and we have to call to her. Then she takes Steffen's order and finally mine. I order fried pork with sticky rice and a side of BBQ vegetables. It was very tasty, though for the price of 30,000 kip the plate was not too big. My total meal was 46,000 kip, which was much more than the others, but still only around 5 dollars.

After dinner we head down to the bars. There were at least 15 bars all lit up with lights. The juxtapositions of decorative lights and blaring music with the poverty stricken locals and their shacks without the luxury of indoor plumbing was incredible and quite surreal. We went to a bar called The Smile Bar and it was packed with westerners dancing and drinking--It was the Full Moon Party. The dancing was actual dancing, not what you seen in all the damn American clubs, which resembles some type of pathetic in-tempo humping. I came up with the brilliant idea of splitting a bucket between AJ, Steffen, and myself. The bucket was Lao rice whiskey, some sodas, red bull, and lime. It was only 30,000 kip and around 35-50 oz. I was to buy the first one, then Steffen the second, and AJ the third, that is, if we were still conscience for a third bucket. The bucket came and I complained that there was not enough whiskey in it. Mind you, I complained before even tasting the drink, I just wanted as much alcohol as possible. They poured a good 4 or 5 more shots into the bucket. We drank it down and when Steffen got the second both he and AJ requested I go to 'swindle' them into providing more alcohol. It worked with great success. The third bucket was up to AJ and this time I really worked the bartender over. The bucket was likely 1/3 whiskey. It was too strong to drink so we ended up drinking about a liter and a half of beers. At this time we were somehow able to drink the rest of the bucket...BIG MISTAKE. We met an Australian named Angus (like the beef), but he just went by Gus. We chatted it up for a while then I met Dale from Dayton. He was the first black person that I saw in the last month, and he was from Ohio. We were moving onwards to the bar next door when we met a friend of AJ's, or at least I think he was his friend. He was very funny and incredibly gay. I asked him which of us three (Steffen, AJ, and myself) he found most attractive jokingly. He then gave me a very dirty response...'nough said! At the next bar two of the bartenders were white and from Canada and maybe one was from the US? The Canadian's name was Scott and we talked how unlike the popular song suggests, Scotty does know. We talked and they agreed to give us some free shots. If I were in the states I would have paid AT LEAST 50 dollars for all the drinks had, but I paid no more than $4 USD. They are very happy to give their alcohol away here, and we are all very happy to accept it. Steffen and I make sure AJ gets back safely and then we go out again to check out the local disco. We wander and run into some locals playing a game of boccie ball. They were very good, but they used metal balls and I wasn't sure how they were able to tell them apart for scoring purposes? We discover that the local clubs are closed and we are tired anyways. We get back to our bungalow a little after 2, which is quite the night since we started out for dinner at 7:15. I get back and lay in bed but feel pretty sick and there was no way I was going to get to bed. I drink a lot of water quickly in hopes of upsetting my stomach, and surprisingly it worked. I was able to 'eliminate the toxins' as one would day from the middle ages. I wasn't up to prime, but I felt good enough to get to sleep.

I woke up the next day, barely. I was very hungover and I had less than 10 minutes to get washed up, pack my suitcase and my day bag. I took some Advil because I knew what was coming...A 7 hour van ride through the mountains. This was such a brutal experience. Even the other, that were feeling fine, almost puked. I was able to make it through the bus ride without loosing any fluids (A+ for me). I cannot even begin to explain how bad this ride was. There must have been no stretch of road that had more than 500ft of straight pavement. Not to mention the van was painfully uncomfortable just to sit in.

Luang Prabang
We arrived in Luang Prabang around 14:00 and it was hot. We took a 25 minute walk into the city and scoped out the 'placed to go'. I then had a riverside lunch with Anth and Kati, the Finnish couple. It was very nice being along the Mekong River. I ate a salad, which had eggs, cucumber, mint, and it tasted very American. I only hope the lettuce was clean enough to eat? I know that when I am in India I won't be able to eat like I do here. My large salad and ice milk with sweet milk cost me about $2.50 USD. Tomorrow I am planning on waking up very early and getting into town around 5:30 to see the Monks beg for food. There are hundreds and hundreds of them that come. This is the same area that has a morning market, as well as a night market. There is a mountain I am going to climb called Phusy Mountain (pronounced Pu-say), and across the street is a Museum. The day after tomorrow I may do a day tour. They have kayaking, hillside trekking, elephant riding, biking, waterfalls, elephant bathing, etc. I think I'll go for the biking, kayaking, and waterfall trip. It's about $40 USD, which is kinda pricey, but it's a nice way to spend the day since we do have 3 nights in this city.

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Hanoi to Lao

Hanoi
I spend my second day in Hanoi first by going to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, but it was not open on Sunday. We did however get into the Ho Chi Minh museum, but it was mainly communist propaganda. Afterward we went to the 3 story market, which was insane. You can buy anything and everything you can imagine. Outside the indoor market there were streets packed with food, cloth, and electronic vendors. On the way back to our hotel Kim, Lyn, Carrie, and I picked up our laundry, which only cost 15,000 Dong per kilo, about $.35/lb of dry laundry. This was the first time I did my laundry (no washings before 20 days, not bad huh?). We dropped our stuff off and went to KFC for some lunch. Then onwards to the water puppet show, something Hanoi, Vietnam is known for. It was interesting, but I got bored. I had no idea what the hell the story line was. On the way back to our hotel, after the show, Haereshem and I got some Bao. That night we went out to eat and I got a side of kimchi. It was the best I've ever had, very flavorful and very spicy. After dinner we said our goodbyes for those that are not going to Lao. Some of us went to a night club but it was something else. I mean, 5 security guards in uniform greeted us inside the front doors and checked our bags. When the doors of the club opened we were almost deafened. It was SO loud. We found out that drinks were around 70,000 Dong, which totally a rip off, so we left. We noticed 4 more security guards scattered outside and around the front door, scoping the area. There were also several Mercedes, and other nice cars parked along the road. Mind you, this is a country where someone is rich if they own a 1985 ford. This place was definitely mob run.

Getting into Lao
The next morning, we were on the road at 5:30, which meant we had to wake up and pack our bags much earlier than that. I got in the van, now 6 of us, the Finnish couple, the Aussie couple, my German roommate Steffen, and myself. They are all 26 to 29 years old. I went to sleep for about 1.5 hours, at which point I could no longer sleep. The hotel had packed our breakfast for us, since breakfast was included in our stay, but we left to early to eat it. They packed us 4 slices of break, jam, butter, orange soda, and 2 bananas. The others told me that the break was moldy so I only had the bananas. Before we got to the Vietnam/Lao border the roads got VERY curvy and bumpy. We were riding along the edge and scaling several mountains. There were signs ALL OVER the place warning us of loose rocks, rock slides, weak bridges, uneven pavement, etc. These roads went on for hours and hours. We must have averaged 15km/hr. We checked out of Vietnam fine and now we were in no man's land. We had to drive to the Lao border, which was only half a km or so away. We had to pay a 2 dollar bribe and my visa was $35 USD. This fee was dependent on our nationality. We all were happy to be out of the ugly, rude, dirty Vietnam and into Lao. Lao was very different than Cambodia and Vietnam. Even though Lao is more poor than Cambodia, it isn't too apparent. True they live in wooden houses I could construct within a week, but there isn't the extreme poverty we saw in Cambodia. This is because Cambodia is missing an entire generation of people from the Killings in the 1970s.

Pak Xan
We arrived in Pak Xan around 8:30 at night, after having left Hanoi at 5:30 in the morning (talking about a long day of traveling). This city is tiny, which our hotel was the only hotel in the city. There is only one street (highway 13) that we will be taking during our stay in Lao. I went for a run in the early morning around 6:30 and then we had some breakfast. The hotel had a caged bear which we fed and pet. We had another 4 hour or so bus ride to get to the capital city of Vientiane.

Vientiane
This city was very quiet. It's the sleepiest capital city in the world is seems. We walked around and visited some pagodas. Steffen and I went into a shopping mall and could not believe what we saw. There were bootleg bags, watches, and clothing all over. Food kiosks selling all types of unusual foods and beers (at least unusual to me). We walked into one warehouse-like room where they had at least 20 kiosks of high-tech phones. MUCH more high tech than back in the states. Outside the mall there was a market. We say some locals melting down scrap metal and making jewelery. We wandered into another market where all they sold was electronic stuff. From cameras, to cell phones, to video games. You name it. They had more merchandise than all the products in a given Costco, UNBELIEVABLE. They had the same quantity of clothing and bags and shoes upstairs. Likewise with gold and silver jewelery. There were more people in the mall and these markets than in the entire city. On the way out I bought myself a black t-shirt of the Lao alphabet for about $1.50. On the way back to our hotel I met a couple from the US. Steffen and I got to talking with them and we decided to get a beer riverside. Mind you, the Mekong River was pretty dried up where we went to get the drink. We talked for a couple hours and had drank a little shy of one and a half liters of beer (which is quite a lot of beer in the hot sun). They are married and have been traveling for about a year. They have been all around south east Asia and eastern Europe. We talked about the cultural differences and how we all hated the Vietnamese people.

Vang Vieng

After another 3+ hour bus ride we arrived at a nice backpacker's city called Vang Vieng. We checked into our Bungalows and all went tubing down the Nam Song river. It is crazy, like a spring break of South East Asia. There had to have been 8 bars, that all had water slides and zip lines that through your out at least 15 feet above the water. We had to sign a waver with our tour guide and with the tubing company becuase many people have died using the zip lines. The bars were filled with western backpackers and free shots for all that stopped at their bars. People would through lines at your on your inner tube and we would grab on and they would drag us to their bar. They all served Beelao, a pretty nice lager, but we got a 'special' menu at one of the bars. They had Magic Mushroom Shakes, Weed Shakes, and, Weed Brownies for 50,000 kip. They also had Opium Tea for 250,000 kip. There are about 8,500 kip to $1 USD. The tubing trip took some time and I got off a little earlier and walked with my tube for about 3 km to see the town. Much of the town is filled with only locals. I get stares from the children like Jesus or something. They also say hi, or hello, in their broken English. It's very cute. When I within half a km to our hotel I saw the touristy area. There were Internet cafes everywhere, and ATMs, and book exchanges. There were tour booths, food stalls, and more white people than I've seen in the last 3 weeks. All the bars here have reruns of Friends playing on them, I'm not sure why, but they are just known for it. Tonight is a full moon and there is a huge Full Moon party that we're going to attend. Tomorrow we head for Luang Prabang, where we will be staying 3 nights. It will be nice to be somewhere for that long. We've stayed in 14 hotels in the last 3 weeks and it's becoming a pain in the ass to unpack and repack the same stuff over and over again.

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Introduction, Itinerary, and Travel Dates.

Hello All,

I would like to take this time to introduce myself as well as the following blog. I am Scott Biales, as most of you likely already know. I will be traveling to South East Asia, India, and Ireland from January 17th to March 24th, 2009. For the first leg of my trip I will be in Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam for about 5 weeks. I will be flying from Bangkok, Thailand to Delhi, India for the second leg of my trip and will be traveling Northern India for a little under 4 weeks. The third and last leg of my trip consist of 9 days in The Republic of Ireland. I will be flying from Kolkata (formerly known as Calcutta) into Dublin, Ireland and will be spending St. Patrick's Day in the capital city. I will Travel the country and fly out from Shannon International Airport and return home on March 24th 2009.

Although I will not be visiting the following locations, I will be stopping at their airports:

• Tokyo, Japan
• Chicago, IL
• Mumbai (foremely Bombay), India
• London, England

I encourage everybody to contact/communicate with me via this blog, as my email will likely be cluttered with 1000s (literally) of emails while I'm gone and this will make it much more convenient for me. Also, I will be keeping a personal travel journal, so I will be using that a lot. Thus, don't expect too much detail/info in this blog.

Itinerary
(NOTE: the following itineraries include both organized tours and the plans I made myself, which are subject (and very likely) to change as I see fit)

1st Leg of Trip

Day 1 Bangkok Today is arrival day so there are no activities planned. You are therefore free to relax, explore the city & adjust to the frenetic pace and humid heat of Bangkok. Please try to arrive before 6pm for an important group meeting where you can meet the tour leader and the other group members.

Day 2-3 Siem Reap/Angkor Wat (2B)
After breakfast on day 2, we leave Bangkok on the way to the Thai Cambodian border. It's a long bus ride to Siem Reap. It will take approx 4 hours from Bangkok to the border. It is possible to get Cambodian visas at the border; ask your leader for details. Then, we will disembark with our luggage and cross the border by foot. This process can take up to an hour or more. After the border formalities are complete, we continue on to Siem Reap. This section of the drive is on mostly unsealed roads and it is very bumpy!!! Although its only 160 km in length, it can take about 5-6 hours. The scenery is spectacular though and there's an immediate contrast between Thailand and Cambodia.
Angkor, the former capital of the Khmer Kingdom, is one of the wonders of the archeological world. Rediscovered at the end of the last century by French explorers, this vast ruined city is becoming one of the most popular sites in Southeast Asia. You can buy a pass to visit some of the highlights of this ancient capital, like the magnificent temple of Angkor Wat, the enigmatic Bayon within the walled city Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm, Preah Khan and Banteay Srei.

Day 4-5 Phnom Penh (2B)
On day 4, we journey by local bus taking in the spectacular scenery to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. After a brief walking tour by your leader you are free to explore Phnom Penh. Sights you might want to visit include the National Museum and adjacent complex of the Silver Pagoda and Royal Palace. After 1975, when Pol Pot and his henchmen grabbed power, Cambodia was thrown into an abyss of unspeakable violence and mass-murder. Millions of Cambodians perished during this time. Witness to this genocide are the Killing fields of Choeung Ek and the Tuol Sleng prison. A Tuk Tuk can be hired locally to take you there, or you may wish to explore town or go shopping at the famous Russian Market.

Day 6-7 Sihanoukville
A three hour drive takes us to Cambodia's southern coast and the beaches of Sihanoukville. Relax on the sand whilst having a massage and eating fresh seafood, or join a boat trip for snorkelling and lunch on an uninhabited island.

Day 8 Mekong Delta (1B)
We'll drive 4-5 hours to the Cambodia/Vietnam border. After completing the necessary formalities, we will continue on to Chau Doc (Vietnam), a 45 minute drive. You should arrive mid afternoon with time to relax and adjust to the change of pace. A trip up to Sam Mountain on motorbikes to watch the sunset, a boat trip through the fish farms, or a walk through the local market give you a taste of life in the Mekong Delta.

Day 9-10 Ho Chi Minh City
After breakfast on day 9, head to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). Lose yourself in the maze of Saigon’s central market, here you’ll find everything from bolts of brocade to flanks of beef. Write a quick postcard in Saigon’s stately French colonial post office, one of many French-era buildings that add grace this modern metropolis. On day 10, we take an overnight train to Nha Trang.

Day 11-12 Nha Trang (1B)
Arrive in Nha Trang in the morning. Explore the local shops and markets, sit on the beach soaking up the sun or visit nearby historical towns. Optional activities can include a boat trip to nearby islands for snorkeling and scuba diving.
On the evening of day 12 we take an overnight train to Danang.

**Please note that the January 10th, 2009 departure will be traveling to Danang by bus instead of train on evening of day 12**


Day 13-14 Hoi An (2B)
From Danang, it is only a short drive to the picturesque port town of Hoi An, once known as Faifo, was an important trading town with strong south Chinese influence and connections.

You can take a walking tour of this living museum which includes the Museum of History and Culture, the Tan Ky house, the Japanese bridge, the Fujian Assembly Hall and lunch at a riverside restaurant to sample some of the local delicacies. Hoi An is also a shopping mecca for tourists in the region. Tailors can produce virtually anything overnight, with clothing, silk lanterns, lacquer ware and many other crafts abound.And for sun worshipers,Cua Dai Beach is 4kms from town.


Day 15-16 Hue (1B)
Just a 3 hour drive to the north of Hoi An is the city of Hue. Our drive takes us over Hai Van Pass and past Lang Co beach.

Upon arrival in Hue, once the imperial capital, tour the Citadel which also contains the Forbidden Purple City, modeled on the Forbidden City in Beijing. Badly destroyed during the Tet Offensive in 1968, significant restoration work has since occurred. A true highlight of Hue is the surrounding countryside. Traveling by boat along the Perfume River visit Tien Mu Pagoda and the tombs of two of the Emperors Minh Mang and Khai Dinh.

Late afternoon of Day 16 board an overnight sleeper train to Hanoi (approx 13hrs).


Day 17 Halong Bay/Bay Chai Harbour (1L)
Arrive in the early morning to bustling Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam. We will then transfer to a private bus for a 3 hour drive to Halong Bay.

Thousands of islands rise dramatically from the waters of Halong Bay and, to further their beauty, intricate caves have been hollowed out through these limestone karst formations. Aboard a sailing junk we'll enjoy a seafood lunch before visiting some of these islands and caves. Perhaps we'll have a chance to take a pre-dinner swim, before transferring to the mainland for our overnight stay.

Day 18-19 Hanoi (2B)
After breakfast, we'll transfer back to Hanoi. Upon arrival you can visit Tran Quoc Pagoda, the Temple of Literature (Van Mieu) or Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum and Museum. The Mausoleum houses the remains of Ho Chi Minh, the founding father of the unified Vietnam (the mausoleum and museum is closed October-November). Or take a walk through Hanoi's Old Quarter – a maze of street, each one traditionally devoted to a different product or industry. In the evening you have an option to attend a performance at the famous Water Puppet Theatre and sample some of Hanoi's amazing eating venues. They offer all kinds of delicious Vietnamese food, one of the world’s most delightful cuisines.

Day 20 Pak Xan
Today is a long travel day (approx 12hrs). We travel through spectacular mountains before crossing into Lao.
Pak Xan is a sleepy town with a great local market. The pace of life is dramatically different from Vietnam. We’ll arrive in the evening with a chance to have some dinner and enjoy a cold Beer Laos.


Day 21 Vientiane (B)
A 5 hour drive takes us to the capital city.
There is a wealth of cultural delights to discover - on foot, by bicycle or, for the less energetic, by tuk-tuk. Visit Laos' most important national monument, Phat That Luang, or meander down the dusty riverside tracks to find villages full of friendly children, dogs and chickens. A visit to Vientiane's vibrant, colourful morning market (which incidentally is open all day!) is worth it to find plenty of local treasures. A great way to round off the day is to enjoy a spectacular sunset over the Mekong at one of the many restaurants along the riverbank.


Day 22 Vang Vieng
A 3 hour drive north takes us to beautiful Vang Vieng. This quiet town is set along the Nam Song river amidst rice fields and limestone karsts. Explore some of the caves by bicycle, or float down the river in a tire tube stopping off for a cold drink and zip line ride at one of the numerous bamboo bars. In the evening, soak in the beauty of Vang Vieng as the sun sets over the river.

Day 23-25 Luang Prabang (2B)
Today we take the bus from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang (approx 7 hours)
Luang Prabang has a magical feel about it. Nestled in the hills of northern Laos on the confluence of the Mekong and Khan Rivers, it is studded with ornate temples and French colonial architecture. A visit to the Royal Palace Museum, which has remained untouched since the royal family departed in 1975, is sure to impress.

We will also have an option to hop on a songthaew to the beautiful Kuang Si falls, where pale turquoise waters cascade over limestone formations.

For a small additional cost there is also the option, for those who feel active and want to stretch their legs, to take a 3 to 4-hour walk through the countryside to the falls (in wet season it may be too slippery).


Day 26-27 Pakbeng/Chiang Khong
We board our boat for the 2-day journey up the mighty Mekong River to Chiang Khong. The journey is relaxed, as we experience the slow pace of village life and the breathtaking scenery along the river. We dock at the small town of Pak Beng to spend the night (approx 8 hours). The standard of accommodation in this trading port is basic but comfortable.Note that Pakbeng only has electricity from 6pm to 10pm and 6am to 10am.

The following morning we re-board our boat and cruise leisurely up the river before arriving at the Laos/Thai border and crossing in to Chiang Khong in the late afternoon (approx 7 hours).

Please note that the river boat is of a basic standard. Your leader will help arrange the purchase of food and drinks for the boat journeys. It can also be quite cold from November to February so make sure you have some warm gear packed!


Day 28 Chiang Mai/Overnight Train
Leaving Chiang Khong early in the morning we drive to Chiang Mai (approx 5 hours). You'll have the afternoon to explore. In the evening, we board our fan cooled overnight train for Bangkok (approx 12 hours).

Day 29-33 Bangkok
We'll arrive early in the morning to Bangkok, Thailand's capital city. The day is free to explore the many sights of Bangkok. The Grand Palace, Wat Po, National Museum, and Jim Thompson's House are just a few suggestions. A trip along the Chao Praya river and through the canals (or Klongs) gives you a different perspective of daily life in this busy city. In the evening we'll say good bye as we enjoy a Thai meal, some of the world's best food!

Day 34 Depart Bangkok (B)

2nd Leg of Trip

Days 1-2 Delhi

Namaste! Welcome to India.

India's capital is an exciting, busy, and often chaotic city but certainly one of the most interesting. With well-preserved historical sites from many different eras, museums and galleries, shops and endless bazaars, there is more to see and do than we can possibly fit in during our short time here. For those arriving early, there is an opportunity to discover some of the many attractions on your own - the ruins of Qutb Minar and Purana Qila, the crafts museum, Indira Gandhi Museum, Birla House (the site of Gandhi's assassination) and the centre of Imperial British India at Rajpath are all highly recommended.

We start day 2 with a visit to Old Delhi. The walled city of Shahjahanabad, or Old Delhi, was the creation of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. In the morning, we visit one of its most impressive buildings and Delhi's oldest mosque, the Jama Masjid. Afterwards, we join the crowds, walking through the bazaars of the Old City, immersing ourselves in the noise and smells of the crowded narrow streets and alleys, where different areas specialise in festival paraphernalia, silk, copper, brass and spices.

Our hotel in Delhi is right in the heart of the city. Rooms have air-conditioning, private bathrooms with hot and cold running water. The hotel has a multi cuisine restaurant and internet cafe.

In the late afternoon of day 2 we leave on an overnight train for Jaisalmer (approx 19 hours). Our sleeper trains along the way are clean and air conditioned, and are a great way to travel long distances and still get maximum time in each place. Beds are padded berths, sheets, pillow and blankets are provided but some people prefer to bring their own sleeping sheet. Please note you may be sharing with locals in a same gender/mixed gender situation. Most trains have a dining carriage where food/snacks/meals are available.

Days 3-5 Jaisalmer

Travelling through the night, we wake to find a desert landscape as we travel across the stark Thar Desert. The 1,000 km journey takes around 19 hours and we should arrive in Jaisalmer around midday if there are no train delays.

Looking like a scene from 'The Thousand and One Nights' as it rises magically out the desert, Jaisalmer is a centre for nomadic tribespeople who come in to town to trade in the narrow twisting alleys full of markets and ornately carved houses.

Our accommodation in Jaisalmer is a guest house located in the fort itself with a roof top restaurant. Rooms have running hot and cold water in private bathrooms.

From our base in Jaisalmer, the Thar Desert is right on our doorstep and we take the opportunity to ride camels out over the sand dunes to spend a night out under the stars. At night, the riders get the camp fire burning and cook us dinner. In the morning, awaken early for an amazing desert sunrise, before a simple breakfast. This is a taste of the life of a nomadic trader and it's definitely travelling at its very best. While camping we stay in multishare tents. A seperate toilet tent will be set up.

Days 6-7 Jodhpur

A local bus carries us across the Thar Desert to Rajasthan's second-largest city, the busy and chaotic Jodhpur (approx. 5 hours). Full of fascinating artefacts, you may choose to take some time to explore the colossal Meherangarh Fort that dominates the city skyline.

Our hotel is situated in a very central position and has a rooftop cafe with an unbelievable view of the Meherangarh Fort and the old city. Only 5 minutes' walk away is Sadar Bazaar, one of the oldest markets in India. Built around the clock tower amid spice and vegetable markets, juice sellers and sari materials, Sadar Bazaar also has numerous vendors with carts selling everything from Bollywood soundtracks to armfuls of sparkling bangles. Jodhpur is famous for its antique shops and for the best lassi in India - well, that's our opinion! And yes, Jodhpur is where those famous trousers come from!

Out in the surrounding countryside are the Bishnoi tribal villages, which are well worth seeing. You leader can organise a visit for you on request.

Days 8-10 Udaipur

A bus takes us to Udaipur, the southernmost point of our trip (approx. 7 hours). Rolling hills, white marble palaces and lakes all combine to give Udaipur a very special appeal, and it certainly lives up to its reputation as India's most romantic city. It's a centre for artists, dancers and musicians and the shopping is simply superb.

Again, our hotel sits within walking distance of many of Udaipur's main points of interest, such as the Jagdish Temple, Saheliyon-ki-Bari (the Garden of Maidens) and City Palace with its museums, crystal gallery and wealth of royal treasures.

Udaipur's famous Lake Pichola is a serene place to enjoy a boat ride and if you are gastronomically inclined, there is plenty of time to learn the art of Indian cooking at Spice Box, a deliciously fun must-do for all who come here. You could also visit a craft village and a folk museum or take in a fantastic cultural show at the Bagore-ki-Haveli - where you could even get up and join in the dancing! Journey out to the hilltop Monsoon Palace for sunset or spend lazy afternoons just taking in the views from a rooftop cafe, over a glass of hot, sweet chai.

Days 11-12 Pushkar

Today we travel by local bus to Pushkar (approx. 8 hours). Home to India's only Brahma temple as well as a holy lake, Pushkar is a major destination for pilgrims and sadhus (holy men) from all over India. The atmosphere is friendly and mellow, there is hardly any traffic and the town is small enough to walk around with ease.

While in Pushkar, be sure to spend some time exploring the main bazaar and many sidestreets - again, some great shopping can be done here with some of the cheapest clothes and jewellery to be found in northern India. Hang out in one of the gardens or rooftop restaurants or walk around the lake, with its bustling ghats and temples, to watch the devout as they worship at the holy waters. There is an optional early morning walk to the hilltop Savitri Temple for magical views over the town, and also a wonderful steaming glass of chai waiting for you if the chai man is there - certainly well worth the trek!

Days 13-14 Jaipur

Today we travel on a local bus (approx. 4 hours) to the 'Pink City' of Jaipur, where we find a friendly and busy town with palaces and bazaars full of jewellery, textiles and folk-based arts. Deep in the heart of the Old City lies India's most-photographed building after the Taj Mahal, the Hawa Mahal, also known as the 'Palace of the Winds'. Be sure to stop by and take some photos yourself!

Near Jaipur is the old capital of Amber, a majestic hilltop palace complex - which makes for a wonderful day trip. To fully get into Indian life, don't miss watching a Hindi movie - there is nowhere better than the Raj Mandir Cinema - 3 hours of song and dance for a couple of dollars can't be beaten!

Day 15 Bharatpur

We leave Jaipur by local bus (approx. 5 hours) to the city of Bharatpur, home to the famous Keoladeo Bird Sanctuary, where a peaceful afternoon can be spent cycling around the Park. If birds are not your interest, you can visit surrounding villages with our host who is involved in projects to uplift rural development in the area.

Days 16-17 Agra

Leaving the early birds chirping, we head east by public bus for Agra (approx. 2 hours).

The Mughal city of Agra is home to one of the world's most instantly recognisable monuments - the Taj Mahal. Built by Emperor Shah Jahan as a memorial to his wife Mumtaz, this 'teardrop on the face of eternity', as it was described by Rabindranath Tagore, lives up to all expectations. Expensive to get into (INR750- around US$17), but worth every cent. There is also time to check out the Red Fort an impressive landmark of the Mughal dynasty left imprinted on the city.

In Agra our accommodation is at a basic property run by a local family, in a great location only 800 meters from the Eastern gate of the Taj Mahal. Rooms are basic with attached private bathrooms.

We leave for Varanasi on the overnight train on the evening of day 17 (approx. 8 hours).

Days 18-20 Varanasi

The holiest place for Hindus, Varanasi is a place where weeks can just melt by as you explore the amazing sights going on all around you. Pilgrims bathing and performing rituals and ceremonies unchanged for hundreds of years, temples full of bell chimes and the smell of incense, the dhobi wallahs, the burning ghats, the stories, the legends, the people - all of India seems to be encapsulated within this amazing city.

In Varanasi our accommodation is owned by a local Indian family. It is a simple hotel, situated right on the banks of the Ganges in the popular Assi Ghat area. Rooms are neat and clean property with attached bathrooms.

We take the train to Kolkata (Calcutta) early in the evening on day 20 (approx. 17 hours).

Days 21-24 Kolkata

Once the capital of British India, Kolkata has had some bad press over the years. Flooded by refugees after the partition of India, famines in Bengal as well as the India-Bangladesh War, the city suffered as wave after wave of immigrants pushed its infrastructure to the limit and slums and street dwellers came to symbolize the city to the world. However, the Kolkata of today is renewed and emerging as a major cultural centre with art galleries, museums and a healthy film and theatre scene. With its British architecture, its trams and, of course, the river with its famous bridge, Kolkata is a vibrant and exciting city with plenty to offer. There are flower markets to browse and traditional wrestlers at their outdoor gymnasiums to watch. You can take a boat along the river, visit the idol-makers and explore the central market - the options are endless!

3rd Leg of Trip

Day 1-3 Dublin
Enjoy live music and parades on the the streets for the celebration of St. Patrick's Day. Take a walking tour of the city and enjoy a walk inside the Guinness brewery (don't worry Mom, I won't get too hammered...).

Day 4-5 Cork
Take a bus to a the Blarney Castle and Blarney Stone. Consider taking a bus ride to Killarney.
Day 6-8 Galway
Explore the Irish culture in the pubs and on the street. Listen to live music. Take a day trip to The Burren and see the Cliffs of Moher.
Day 9 Depart Ireland

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